My recent sojourn in Rome has already been mentioned in two previous blogs. One about bottled beers bought in a local Spar shop and one about the fabulous Ma Che Siete Venuti. In my short trip, another couple of places stood out for me as beer drinking venues. The first is a pub/restaurant literally on the opposite side of the tiny Via Benedetta from Ma Che Siete Venuti. This is Bir e Fud.
Bir e Fud is famous for its pizzas and, of course, its beer. Located in a bit of a corner, Bir e Fud has annexed a small part of the street as an outside drinking area. Slightly chill as it was at the time of our visit, we proceeded inside.
The bar has a long copper pipe all along it, punctuated with taps. This unusual piece of bar furniture is placed at just the right height that you have to duck down under it or stand on tippy toes to order your drinks over it. That doesn’t matter, because the beer is fantastic. Bir & Fud prides itself in serving a wide range of Italian artisanal beer, and the large beer menu on the wall testifies to this.
Lady A and I found a table at the back of the dining room and ordered food. The menu is in Italian and has no English translations, so what you get is anybody’s guess if your Italian is as bad as mine. Anyway, when it turned up, it was beautifully prepared and very tasty. Whatever it was. Lady A asked for a fruit juice, but was told, politely, that if she didn’t want beer, she could have water. Those are the only choices.
My first beer from the extensive menu was Borgo Ketoreporter, a wonderfully black 5.2% porter. It is beautifully rich and creamy in the mouth. The flavours are predominantly of dark fruits and liquorice with a clever and distinct overlay of hoppy bitterness. A lovely porter, and bang on what I would expect a good porter to taste like.
Next was another Borgo ale, Hoppy Cat, a 5.8% Black IPA. It’s not quite black, but is a very dark red. It pours with a clean white head. The smell is strongly hoppy with just the right amount of citrus to balance it out. The dominant themes of the smell carry through into the taste, and I was reminded very strongly of Toccalmatto B Space Invader, another artisanal Italian Black IPA that I had tasted over the road in Ma Che Siete Venuti just a couple of nights before. Hops are strong and dominant throughout, with a hint of liquorice at the end.
Feeling confident in the beer menu now, I ordered a Ducato Golden Ale. At 4.5%, this was lighter in every sense of the word than the last two drinks. Sadly, I felt a little let down by this beer. It wasn’t bad, but not up to the standard set by the first two. Golden Ale has a bright white head and is yellow and cloudy. The taste was somewhat ashy. Overall rather thin with not much to it.
I determined to give the Ducato brewery another chance, so next I opted for a Ducato Verdi, and 8.3% Imperial Stout. This beer truly is black, with a dark brown head. From the first sip, Ducato redeemed themselves. I am a great fan of Imperial Stouts, or imps, and this is a proper imp. Dark roasty malt flavours mingle with bitter black coffee and a slightly spirituous overtaste, reminding you of its significant ABV. Verdi is beautiful but very bitter. Superb.
Unfortunately, I was only able to make one trip to Bir e Fud during this trip. Like Ma Che Siete Venuti across the road, it’s a popular haunt with Romans, and once again we were the only non-Italians in the place. The staff, of mostly young people, were friendly and helpful. Certainly the young man who served us was quite proficient in English, and knew a lot about the beers he was serving. It’s odd that probably the two best places for drinking artisanal beer in Rome are within a few yards of each other, but you can easily visit both in an evening. It has to be said though, that both these places deserve more than a flying visit. My next trip to Rome will certainly have good amounts of time allotted to these pubs. Next time, though, I’m going to have learned a little Italian, so I know what I’m ordering.
Words and images are my copyright, please respect that. All you have to do is ask. Thank you.